Today’s fiddle friday shows you half of my heart and soul. This technique is one of my all-time favourites, but because it is so hard to do it has taken me over 10 years to make a tutorial for it! First of all: stamping on china itself isn’t the hard part – it’s the paint and the finishing. But more on that later.
My friend Irmgard ‚invented‘ stamping on china – at least I’ve never seen anyone do it like her since, and if there are people doing it somewhere in the world, I haven’t found them yet.
The basic technique is so simple, even easier than stamping on paper in my opinion. But the first problem comes up even before using the stamp: which paint do I need to use?
I could write a whole book about this topic alone, but I will spare you right now! Just one thing I do wanna say: I have been working on simplyfying the use of material for years. And I have achieved nice results, but my expectations are really high. As soon as I have found an EASIER method, I will tell you. And shout it from the rooftops! Until then I have the following suggestions for you:
Irmgard uses paint from a brand called Schjerning (click here). People who paint on china will probably know other brands, but I only know this one. I’m not really happy to refer you to it though, because all of my e-mail requests to them on where to get the paint have been ignored. And on an exhibition I was met with a lack of interest from them. That is why I owe you information on where to buy it. Maybe they’ll wake up if you contact them. Irmgard’s source isn’t available anymore.
Anyway, these paints come as a powder and have to be mixed with a painting medium. We used one without oil, because oil damages the stamp. If you do want to use paints containing oil, you should clean the stamp fairly quickly afterwards as to not damage the rubber. (oil only damages the rubber when left on for too long – a few minutes won’t be the end of the world)
After driving down to Irmgard’s three times (this added up to 360 kilometres (186 miles), all for you!) we ended up with a plate, a cup and a tile which I am using as a trivet in my kitchen. In this video I am showing you how we made them. *drum roll* It has taken me 12 years to finish this, can you imagine how happy I am?
See what I mean? And that’s exactly how you correct badly stamped lines or even bigger areas by just repainting them. Try that on paper!
However, the crux of this technique is to have a pottery kiln! That’s why I drove down to Irmgard who has one of these bad boys in her basement. If you are looking for one, you might want to talk to your nearest pottery. They should be able to burn your items for you. And while you’re at it, they probably have paint and tools, as well.
One more important thing: If you want to colour in black contours you need to burn your item twice. First for the black contour, and then after painting it in. Both times you need to get your items to the pottery without damaging the motif. Before burning it, it is still very fragile, so use a large box to get your items there so that they don’t get ruined. Good luck!
Oh, and in case you are using paint with lead in it – don’t eat from it! I do, but PLEASE ask your paint supplier if they recommend it. A cup would be stamped from the outside, so just leave out the upper rim to not touch the paint when drinking from it. It won’t come off once you’ve burned it at 800 degrees Celsius, but better to be safe!
After the second time burning it, your work will be solid. The cup will still break when you drop it, but your motif will still be on there! And if you have used quality paint that was not too thick (the paint can chip if you put on a layer that’s too thick), your stamped work of art will sustain everything that your cup will, too!
I hope you’ll have a great time stamping on china. Please leave a comment in case you try it. I’m always happy to be hearing from you guys 🙂